Let’s take a look at some of the biggest shows in Paris, highlighting the emerging trends we saw in New York, London and Milan. Are the Parisian fashionistas feeling monochrome for a second season, do they love the 1940s glamour along with the coloured fur and use of heavy masculine fabrics? Or Will Paris give us a whole new take on the Autumn/Winter 2013 trends?
The moment everyone had been waiting for, Alexander Wang’s debut collection for Balenciaga, the designer announced he was going back to the roots of the brand. Bracelet sleeves, cocoon coats, peplums shapes and petal skirts were all evident at the show in a very monochrome colour palette. Print consisted of a monochrome abstract marble print in light hues and recoloured in darker grey and black tones.
For most, when thinking of the designer label Elie Saab you think RED CARPET, correctly. Katy Perry, Beyonce and Mila Kunis are all huge fans of the designer but to name a few and it’s no wonder looking at this expanded jewel toned collection. Sapphire blues and blacks, emeralds, diamond yellow and pearl whites were the tones of this ready to wear collection. The show was named, Strictly Decorative and it was with crepe satin tailoring and hip hugging peplums dressed with fitted jackets. Eveningwear gowns and dresses were decorated with beading and embellishment experimenting with lace.
Models at the Louis Vuitton show walked the runway in nightwear inspired dresses dressed with fur coats, silk camisoles and dressing gown inspired floral coats. Experimenting heavy masculine tailoring mixed with lace and embellishment worked well along with more velvet. It was even more exciting to see Kate Moss on the runway again and Marc Jacobs himself in his pyjamas.
Inspired by Californian grunge the Saint Laurent show had vintage florals, boyfriend cardigans dressed over sparkly dresses, checked shirts and babydoll dresses all styled with pearls, fishnet tights and biker boots. Of course there was fur in blush tones and masculine coating.
At the Balmain show it was all about accentuating the shoulders and the hips and there was no such thing as dressing down, the collection was about going out and having a good time. The use of over embellishment, metallic fabrics and leather complimented the hourglass silhouettes of the models. More jewel tones in fuzzy knits and leather dressed with metallic harem pants.
With generous necklines, roomy armholes and of course Chanel’s signature bouclé fabric there were many skirt suits, chained accessories and colour pop fur aviator caps for a rather monochrome collection. Known for breathtaking stage sets for his runway shows, Karl Lagerfeld chose to place an oversized globe for the models to walk around. The dark globe complimented the tones of the collection well.
This collection has been said to be Chloé’s best ever to date. With a sophisticated school-girl girl and a tomboyish sense of style the collection was made up of Parisian luxury fabrics and pieces; tweeds, capes, pressed wools and leather used in a clever way.
Opening with the cute Disney’s Bambi print on a boyish sweatshirt with a slightly grunge element, Givenchy seemed to be recycling and looking back into the label’s archive designs. The collection kept the rich and statement style of Givenchy, using sequin embellishment, cashmere, oversized knits worn floaty floral skirts and the use of velvet. It was a collection of luxurious grunge with a hint of street-wear.
With ongoing world tour of his designs and achievements, Jean Paul Gaultier chose a venue which holds great history for his shows in the 80s and 90s. Opening the show with his signature passion of leather bustiers there was also patchwork, hoods, and quilting as well as a floor length pleated skirt. The emerging trend of the exposed shoulder and not just touches of deep wine but full on outfits with even tights and gloves in this shade were evident in this show.
The John Galliano collection was shouting ‘power woman’ in a rather dark collections with hues or blues and deep purples. The collection was lightened by winter white coating and red within a flocking print and in layers of fabric. Wide trousers were key to this collection as well as short wide sleeves.
Colour and print blocking on sculpted dresses, coating and jackets accentuating the hips were key to the Roland Mouret show. Mouret’s signature style of monochrome power dressing with panelling and a sculpted shoulder were welcomed on this runway. Quite different to his debut bridal collection, almost every edge on the pieces in this collection welcomes an angle.
With a growing presence of the most fashion forward celebrities wearing Stella McCartney tailoring which has always been a signature style for the designer; there was more tailoring in this collection using menswear fabrics and pinstripes were key. It was hard to distinguish between daywear and eveningwear as the collection as a whole looked sophisticated and formal with classic Stella pieces such coloured coating and grey knitwear.
Valentino offered laser cut collars on a-line dresses which were new for Paris Fashion Week; embellishment was minimal and silhouettes were fluid. Shoulders were outlined by colour blocking or layering and there was intricate detailing in fabrics; laser-cut, scalloping and floral prints. The collection was mainly monochrome underpinned by ruby red and royal blue.
Starting in New York then to London and then Milan and with the last leg of the fashion weeks in Paris; there has been hundreds of catwalk shows, celebrities and fashion followers flying across the Atlantic and across Europe to see their favourite designer collections but yet the fashion world is not tired. Now working towards bringing these emerging trends to retail and designers working towards their next collections ♥
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